Woodworker's Journal Dry-Bar, страница 7

Run the stock through the cutter to establish the 1-1/8" length.

Make additional passes to clean up the waste stock.

Repeat this process for the other face side and also the bottom edge.

Adjust the dado head to make the 1-1/8" deep top edge cut.

Set the regular saw blade at 45 degrees, and cut the bevel on each tenon

Transfer the curved profile (shown in Figure 1) from the grid pattern to the

stock.

Cut out the profile with a band or saber saw.

Lay out and mark the location on Part B of the mortise for the back cleat (F) (see Figure 4).

Cut 3/4" thick stock to a width of 2" and a length of 13-3/4" to make the two side stretchers (D) (see Figure 2). Mark the 1-1/8" tenon length on each end. Adjust the dadohead to make a 1/8" deep cut.

Cut each tenon following the same procedure that was used to make parts B and C.

Cut the curved profile in the same manner.

Lay out and mark the location of the mortises for the two cross-stretchers

(E).

Use a sharp chisel to chop out the mortises.

Cut 3/4" thick stock to a width of 1" and a length of 17-1/8" to make the cross-stretchers (E).

Lay out and mark the 5/8" long tenon (see Figure 3) Set up the dado-head cutter to make the 1/8" shoulder all around as shown. Cut the back cleat (F) from 3/4" thick stock to a width of 1-3/4" and a length of 17-1/8".

Lay out the 5/8" long tenon (see Figure 4). Cut out the tenon with the dado-head cutter.

Cut the two outside glass holders (G) from 1" thick stock to a width of 1-1/ 2" and a length of 9-1/4".

Use the table saw to cut the 5/8" by 1-1/8" rabbet (see Figure 5).

Cut the inside glass holders (H) from 1-1/2" thick stock to a width of 1-7/8"

and a length of 9-1/4".

Use the table saw to cut the 5/8" by 1-1/8" rabbets (see Figure 6).

Use the dado-head cutter, set to a height of 3/4", to cut the notches on one

end of both part G and H.

Edge-glue and clamp two or more narrower boards to get the 14-1/2" width necessary to make the long shelf (J). Allow the glue to dry.